|
What
Doesn't Kill You... |
July
1, 2003 - Noel Kempff National Park, Bolivia |
|
"The
most isolated, pristine and spectacular National
Park in the country and one the most remote wilderness regions
in all of South America." |
| |
| |
| |
The Huanchaca Plateau,
rising 500 meters from the floor of the surrounding rainforest
was the inspiration for Sir Arthur Conan Doyle's novel The
Lost World. |
| |
Those were my inspirations
for wanting to visit Noel Kempff National Park. "Rustic
accommodations and basic meals." That's what the park brochure
promised. The perfect little eco-lodge from which to emerge
each day to snap a few award-winning wildlife photos...
so I thought. |
| |
The reality was
not so kind. "The majority of visitors to the park arrive
by chartered airplane" should have been a big clue. But
no, we decided driving there would be an adventure. It was
beyond adventure, bordering on nightmare. Nitsche said,
"What doesn't kill you makes you stronger." I don't think
he mentions that it may also make you really, really irritated. |
| |
The expedition party
(although 'party' is certainly a misnomer) consisted of
me, my sister Patty and Pancho, my Bolivian pal. Once inside
the park, we were joined by our mandatory park guide, Juan.
He was a friendly fellow and an excellent guide but he did
not have the latest data on situations in the park. He was
not really to blame for the fact that the compound for lodging
visitors was locked up and deserted. |
| |
| |
This meant that we would have to survive on a bag
of rice, some beef jerky and a hunk of salty cheese
that smelled like a dirty sock. |
|
|
| |
 |
It was indeed
a disheartening realization after all we had gone
through to get there. Fifteen hours on a deteriorated
dirt road, partially overtaken by jungle.
The jungle has an amazing life force. In a matter
of months it can practically reclaim a road. The space
gets strangled from all directions. There were sprouts
coming up from the ground, branches growing in from
both sides and shoots descending down, seemingly from
the sky. |
|
| |
In
Mexico, atop the pyramids at Chitzen Itza, you can
see other pyramids and what was once an entire city,
completely over-taken by the creeping green. |
|
|
| |
Stuck in the mud
for three hours we became aware of another life force: Insects!
And it did not take three hours for them to make their presence
known. In fact, if you stood still for 30 seconds you would
have a swarm of bees, wasps, butterflies and assorted other
critters orbiting your head and periodically touching down
for landing. |
| |
| |
| |
Picture if you will,
the sun beating down on a hot and muggy day. Struggling
to raise Blanco Billy (my Landcruiser) out of the mud enough
to create a path of logs under the tires. The more you sweat,
the more insects you attract. Bees are crawling under your
clothes and in your ears! Getting stung seven or eight times.
Emergency road service is nothing short of fantasy, given
our location and lack of means of communication.
|
| |
Roadkill...
|
|
The kicker is seeing
the path AROUND the mudhole big enough for a semi! Pancho
was driving and had failed to notice the blatantly obvious
detour. This was probably the reason he was working so silently
and diligently in spite of the heat and the bugs. I, on
the other hand, had to take a break every two or three minutes,
to run away and escape my own personal swarm.
| |
A
live one... |
|
At the rate of progress we were making, we may very well
have been there an additional three hours had it not been
for a couple of park rangers happening along in a pick-up
truck. They were able to yank us out of with a towrope in
fairly short order.
|
|
At the abandoned compound we resorted to breaking and entering
to get bedding materials and drinking water out of a storage
room. We got into the kitchen to encounter a thriving ecosystem.
It included ants, roaches, moths and couple of very large
frogs. The jungle again, asserting it's territorial rights.
Given our food supply and preparation facilities, it was
unanimous that our scheduled five-day stay would be shortened
to two. At least this would allow us to experience two highlights
of the park, La Meseta and El Encanto. La Meseta is the
plateau and El Encanto is a spectacular waterfall that spills
off of the plateau.
| |
| |
| The white arrow on the right
is the top of the waterfall. We hiked to the base
of it for a refreshing swim. The following day we
hiked to the top of the mesa from the other side,
see arrow on the left. |
| |
| |
Driving toward El Encanto, a fallen tree presented another
challenge for Blanco Billy. It required a few more hours
of labor but fortunately it was in a cooler area with less
insects. We had to dig a hole in the road in order to drive
under the tree.
Many times I had to ask myself, "What have I gotten my baby
sister into??" She was pushed close to her limit a time
or two, but all in all, she was a remarkably good sport.
On the way out of the park, at the ranger station, she discovered
a small infestation of ticks on her body. (Somehow I was
spared their onslaught.) In the relative comfort and cleanliness
of the ranger station we were able to deal with the situation.
Had she discovered the ticks deep in the jungle, she said
she might have really lost it.
And there was no love lost between Patty and Macho Pancho
by the end of the trip. Pancho is a good friend, and had
the best of intentions, but his Bolivian machismo wore thin
with independent Patty.
 |
I
am, however, happy to report that she is still on
speaking terms with me. All part of the family fun
and adventure. |
|
PREVIOUS
|| NEXT
Back
to Home
Tell your friends about this page
|